A discussion around the engineering of garments, the similarities of pattern cutting to 3D modelling and the loss of truly bespoke garment making. I will talk from my experience as a theatrical costume maker and wardrobe professional, about the nature of costume vs couture vs fashion pattern cutting. I will touch on the art of draping and tailoring, and the difficulties these styles of pattern cutting create in mass production and computer aided design. I will also discuss the connection between the diminishment of the skill set in relation to the perception of sewing and patterning as "women's work". I will also touch on the change in general perception of what bespoke clothing is worth, and what "normal" body size and shape should be due to mass production and standardisation. Finally I will highlight the brighter side of digital pattern cutting, using that tool for doing things we can't with traditional pattern cutting, and it's role in conservation and archiving.